How ocean giants are born: Tracking the long-distance impact and danger of extreme swells
Late last year, a massive ocean swell caused by a low pressure system in the North Pacific generated waves up to 20 meters ...
Falcons Wire11y
Monster waves rearrange deep-water reefs
The physics of the ocean wave at the surface has its power in the wave length ... But understanding how the ripples form on ...
Nature3y
Coastal Processes and Beaches
Waves — generation and types. Waves provide about half the energy to do work at the coast. Ocean waves are generated by wind blowing over the ocean surface. The stronger the wind, the longer it ...